#Building Miter Saw Stand Plus Others That#

I chose this DIY Miter Saw Station as the first project for the new.(Note: Click any image to enlarge. After that secure the other side to the top shelf using the same method.Sliding tables are usually found on large, industrial table saws used for panel-cutting. Secure the top shelf 1-Вѕ down from the top of one side using 1-Вј pocket hole screws, while using a right angle to hold it square. Start by drilling pocket holes on the underside of the left and right edges of the shelves. Assembling the Miter Saw Stand Base.

If youвЂ™re changing the moldings in your home, at the very least, consider renting one.In fact, with a mobile miter saw stand, you can easily set up a cutting station anywhere. Because power miter saws are now so affordable, anyone with an interest in carpentry should own one. You can cut miters in most small moldings with a miter box and hand saw, but for large profiles, especially tall baseboard and crown molding, a power miter saw is the only way to go. Trim carpentry depends almost entirely on cutting clean tight miters at precise angles and measurements. Couple that with a sturdy build, and vibration and noise are significantly. Figure four sheets of plywood at about 60 pounds per sheet, an almost one hundred pound saw, hardware, casters, laminate, and whatever is in or on all those shelves, roll-out trays and drawers, and it adds up to a lot of weight.

Clamps for securing material while working with tools.5. Counter Sink bit, Phillips driver, & square driver, for drilling counter sunk holes and driving screws.4. Cordless drill for drilling holes and driving screws.3. Tape is best for finish work.2. Tape measure, for measuring: A stiff 1 in. Along the way, IвЂ™ll demonstrate how to use a variety of finish carpentry tools.

1 x 4 x 8 pine or fir supports, ripped to the exact height of your miter saw minus 3/4 in. 1 x 12 x 8 Top pine or fir or plywood board for the top extensions wings on the miter-saw stand.3. 1 x 16 x 8 pine or fir or plywood board, for the base of the miter-saw stand.2. CarpenterвЂ™s Square for marking and measuring boards and trim.1. Miter saw for cutting moldings and millwork.7.

YouвЂ™ll be able to cut all the pieces needed from one 8-ft. If you donвЂ™t have a table saw, or canвЂ™t make these rips yourself, have your local material supplier rip a piece of 1Г—4 or 1Г—6 to that width. Thick, then make the supports exactly the height of your miter saw table, minus 3/4 in. The base and top can be cut to any length and width, but the supports must be ripped to exactly the right height.If the material youвЂ™re using for the top extension wings is 3/4 in. Only one needs to be cut precisely.

Once the stand is finished, you wonвЂ™t need blocks, but for now, stack up a few blocks so the 1x support board rests flat on the miter saw.3. Use blocks to support your workpiece. Measure from both ends to center the saw.2. Center the saw on the base.В Set the 1Г—16В on top of a pair of saw horses, then place the saw in the center. Step-By-Step Instructions 1. While building this miter saw stand remember that craftsmanship depends on the process as much as the finished product.

Move workpiece to line and cut. After cutting the first support, and before moving it from the saw, mark a pencil line at the far end on the miter saw fence.5. Mark repetitive stop line. You may have to slide the stack of blocks forward as you cut the supports.4.

Building Miter Saw Stand Plus Others That

Protect your hands.В Never place your hands closer to the blade than the ends of the miter saw fence. Make precise cuts on your saw safely by following the four tips below, plus others that IвЂ™ll be including in later chapters. TheyвЂ™re dangerous if theyвЂ™re not used correctly.

Split the pencil line.В With your hand locked against the miter saw fence, you can position the measurement mark precisely where the blade cuts. Once youвЂ™ve located the exact position of the blade on the board, use your thumb to creep the measurement mark slowly toward the saw blade.4. Always make your first cut a practice cut, wide of the measurement mark. Miter saws are loud, so always wear ear protection.В Sometimes miter saws shoot out small pieces of molding at extremely high speed, so always wear eye protection, too!3. Protect your eyes and ears.

The web site is I built something similar years ago to transport from job to job.I took a 3вЂІ x 6вЂІ sheet of plywood, mounted the saw in the center, then made the outriggers so that they were removable. I saw the show last week itвЂ™s a good project. And if you want to take it up a few notches, Norm has plans and a DVD for a really nice, portable set-up at the New Yankee Workshop. Always let the blade stop before lifting the motor.(In Part 2 weвЂ™ll finish up the miter saw stand and share some tips for souping up your saw.)Please donвЂ™t try anything you see in THISisCarpentry, or anywhere else for that matter, unless youвЂ™re completely certain that you can do it safely.Comments/Discussion 34 Responses to вЂњMake a Miter Saw Work Station: Part 1вЂќDoes the stand break down to carry it to job sites? It looks like a very solid stand.

And yes, there are advantages to using saw horses and a solid stand like this on a jobsite. Good article! ReplyWhile I havenвЂ™t used a stand like that on a jobsite for yearsвЂ“I prefer one that connects the side of my saw is an is more portable, itвЂ™s a great alternative and I know a lot of carpenters that, like I once did, carry them around in the back of their trucks or on their lumber racks. My own designs have evolved over the years, but IвЂ™ve yet to see the commercial stand that comes close to the portability and versatility of my shop built one. ReplyI think every trim carpenter worth his salt has always looked at all the miter saw stands on the market, with prices in the hundreds of dollars, and thought, heck, all I need is a sheet of plywood and a couple of saw horses. It all fits in the van with room to haul materials. Saw and outriggers have tee nuts underneath so I can quickly bolt the beast together.

The department weвЂ™ve created is meant to fulfill that need, and the book I wrote for Taunton: Trim Made Simple, which weвЂ™ll be taking excerpts from to get this department startedвЂ”that book is focused on the same audience and purposeвЂ”training.I noticed the wooden additions to the fence on your miter saw in your video on cutting crown. ReplyвЂњTraining techniques for apprentice carpenters and serious DIYersвЂќDoes this line refer to the book itself or to this series of articles? ReplyBoth, actually. ReplyOne other note, one thing that IвЂ™ve always found is that by using sawhorses and leaving them extend 12вЂі or so in front of the saw stand, I have a place to set a bundle of base, casing, or a long piece of handrail. Also, when working on a staircase, I can lay a 6вЂ™x 12вЂі piece of plywood on the horses in front of the saw and I have a handy work table for laying out those pesky easing cuts.

I raised mine up to 40вЂі and my backaches went away.It is also going to bow in the middle over time, and need replaced unless that single 1x gets supported some how. You can find his video on the subject here: And by the way, hereвЂ™s a link to one approach for running cathedral crown without using different profiles, and without вЂtippingвЂ™ the molding out of itвЂ™s designed spring angle: It is too low. Do you have a description posted somewhere on the vast Internet?HereвЂ™s a link to an old article on my original website: HereвЂ™s a link on some other ideas for making extension wings: You might also be interested in SpencerвЂ™s approach to his mitersaw extension wings. Was curious as to how they were fashioned and attached.